Apano Meria: A different side of Syros

Most visitors get to know Syros through Hermoupolis, Ano Syros, the seaside villages and the organised beaches on the southern side of the island.

But there’s another side to Syros. A quieter part of the island, with small settlements, rural landscapes and a natural environment that has remained largely unchanged over the years.

This is Apano Meria.

Apano Meria isn’t a village. It’s a large region covering almost half of Syros. You won’t find large hotels, busy beaches or heavily developed tourist areas here. Instead, you’ll discover dry stone walls, small farming settlements, hiking trails and a rugged northern coastline that has kept much of its original character. If you’d like to experience a different side of Syros, Apano Meria is well worth your time.

Many visitors assume that Apano Meria is a village. In reality, it’s the northern region of Syros, covering around 45% of the island’s total area.

The region includes small settlements, farmland, grazing areas, protected natural landscapes, important archaeological sites and some of the island’s most remote beaches.

Although it’s only a short drive from Hermoupolis, the scenery changes surprisingly quickly. The roads become quieter, the houses become fewer and the landscape begins to reflect the agricultural history of Syros rather than the image most people associate with a typical Cycladic holiday.

What makes Apano Meria special isn’t a single attraction. It’s the landscape itself.

A large part of the area is protected as part of the Natura 2000 network, helping preserve both its natural environment and its traditional character while limiting the kind of large-scale tourist development seen elsewhere in the Cyclades.

You don’t need to know anything about its protected status before you visit. You’ll notice the difference as you drive through the area. Open hillsides, dry stone walls, scattered settlements and the absence of intensive development create a landscape that feels completely different from the rest of the island.

One of the first things you’ll notice in Apano Meria is the dry stone walls. They follow the hillsides, divide fields and shape the landscape almost everywhere you look.

They weren’t built for decoration. For generations, local people used them to support farming by creating terraces, preventing soil erosion and making the most of the island’s rocky terrain.

Today, they remain one of the defining features of Apano Meria and a reminder that this landscape was shaped by the people who lived and worked here long before Syros became a popular holiday destination.

Apano Meria stands out not only for its natural beauty, but also for its history. The region is home to Chalandriani and Kastri, two of the most important prehistoric archaeological sites in the Cyclades. Excavations revealed an organised settlement and one of the most significant Early Cycladic cemeteries in the Aegean, showing that people lived here more than 4,000 years ago.

Further north lies Grammata Bay, where sailors from ancient and Byzantine times carved inscriptions into the rocks after finding shelter from storms. Many of these inscriptions can still be seen today.

The area is also home to the Cave of Pherecydes, traditionally associated with the Syros-born philosopher Pherecydes, one of the earliest thinkers of ancient Greece.

Apano Meria is the part of Syros most closely connected with hiking and exploring the outdoors. Several walking trails lead towards the island’s northern coastline and beaches such as Grammata, Lia, Marmari and Varvarousa.

Unlike most beaches on the southern side of Syros, reaching many of these requires a walk or access by sea. That’s part of what makes them special. You don’t visit Apano Meria simply to reach a destination. You come to discover a landscape that has preserved its natural and rural character, follow paths that have been used for generations and experience a side of Syros that many visitors never get to see.

Apano Meria doesn’t require much planning, but it’s worth remembering that facilities are more limited than in other parts of Syros.

If you’re planning to hike or visit one of the northern beaches, bring water, a hat and suitable footwear, especially during the summer months.

More importantly, take your time.
Apano Meria isn’t a place to rush through.
It’s a part of Syros that rewards slow exploration.

Apano Meria probably won’t be the first place you visit when you arrive on the island. But if you’d like to discover Syros beyond its best-known attractions, it’s a place that deserves your time.

Its appeal doesn’t come from busy resorts or organised tourist facilities. It comes from the way it has preserved its landscape, its history and its connection with the island’s past. And that’s exactly what makes it memorable.

The best way to experience Apano Meria is without rushing. Stop whenever a view catches your attention, spend time exploring a trail or simply enjoy the drive through one of the most distinctive parts of Syros.

Having your own vehicle gives you the freedom to discover the area on your own schedule and enjoy everything Apano Meria has to offer. If you’re planning to explore this unique side of Syros, book your vehicle online and choose the option that best suits your trip.